Should i sell my old toyota for a used mitsubishi outlander Gt or keep the yaris?

Should I sell my old Toyota and upgrade to a used Mitsubishi Outlander?

There’s a 2017 Mitsubishi Outlander GT for sale on Marketplace that has really caught my attention. It’s listed at $8,200, has 91,000 miles on it, and appears to be in very good condition from the outside. The price seems attractive, especially compared to what similar SUVs usually go for, and I keep wondering if this is the right time to move on from my current car – a 2008 Toyota Yaris.

I estimate I could sell my Yaris for around $3,000-$3,500. If that’s accurate, I’d only need to cover the remaining $4,700-$5,200. My plan is to ask my dad for a loan to bridge that gap, then pay him back monthly. I’ve already worked out that if I can put $400-$450 towards it every month, I could realistically pay off that amount in about a year.

One major advantage in my situation is that I don’t currently pay traditional living expenses or household bills. I help my dad in his shop on my days off, which we’ve basically arranged as my way of covering those costs. Last year I built my apartment on his property, so our arrangement works well for both of us. Because of that, I actually have some breathing room in my budget that many people in my income bracket don’t have.

My dad had previously offered to loan me one of his cars, but I chose to hold on to my 2008 Toyota Yaris as long as possible. The Yaris has been extremely practical and cheap to own for a long time, but lately it feels like I’m reaching the end of that phase. It’s needing maintenance once or twice a month, and each visit runs me anywhere from $200 to $500. When I look at my bank statements, I realize I’m already paying almost a “car payment” worth of repairs on an old vehicle that still isn’t particularly comfortable or spacious.

The Outlander, on the other hand, looks appealing despite some cosmetic flaws. The seller mentions that the interior is pretty worn, which is the main reason for the relatively low price. In the photos, the logo on the steering wheel is almost rubbed off, and the black-and-red seats look faded and tired. But I’m not too bothered by that. If I ended up buying a white SUV like this one, I’d probably put red seat covers on it anyway. Cosmetic wear doesn’t scare me nearly as much as mechanical issues. From the outside, the car looks almost brand new.

Financially, here’s my reality. I earn about $330 per week. Out of that, I set aside $40 for an emergency fund for my son, pay $100 per week for childcare, and once or twice a month I put $100 toward my Discover card. I currently owe around $3,200 on that card, and it’s slowly going down. I don’t overspend and I live in a low-cost area, which means my budget is tight but manageable. The one big variable ruining that stability is my current car and the endless repair bills.

I also receive some assistance in the form of food benefits, which helps keep our overall cost of living lower. What I really want now is a car that’s safer, more comfortable, and more spacious for both me and my son. The Yaris is tiny. A front passenger barely fits unless they’re very short, and once you factor in a child seat and anything like a stroller or groceries, it becomes cramped very quickly. An SUV like the Outlander would immediately solve the space problem and likely be more comfortable for longer drives.

The key question is whether this is actually a smart upgrade or just a tempting emotional decision. On one side, the math kind of works: I’m already spending $200-$500 once or twice a month on repairs. If that averages out to, say, $300-$400 regularly, switching that money into a predictable payment to my dad for a newer, more practical car doesn’t sound crazy. I’d be trading unpredictable repair bills on an aging vehicle for a more reliable one with a structured payoff plan.

On the other side, there are some risks and details that need to be carefully considered:

– The Outlander already has 91,000 miles. That’s not terrible for a 2017, but it’s also not low. I’d be buying a car that may soon need its own major maintenance: things like brakes, suspension components, or transmission service.
– Mitsubishi does not have the same long-term reliability reputation as Toyota. While the Yaris is old and currently costly to maintain, Toyotas are historically known to go very far if properly repaired. An Outlander can be reliable, but I can’t assume it will be as bulletproof as a Toyota.
– The low price is a red flag and an opportunity at the same time. Yes, the seller says it’s cheaper because the interior is worn, but sometimes a worn interior also tells a story about how the car has been treated overall.

If I’m seriously considering buying this Outlander, a few steps would be absolutely essential:

1. Get a pre-purchase inspection.
Have a trusted mechanic go over the car from top to bottom before any money changes hands. For a relatively small fee, they can check the engine, transmission, suspension, brakes, electronics, and scan for error codes. If something major is about to fail, better to know now than after I’ve sold my Toyota.

2. Check the maintenance history.
Ideally, the seller should provide records: oil changes, brake jobs, transmission services, recalls performed, etc. A 2017 with 91,000 miles should already have had certain services done. If everything is missing or vague, I need to assume I might be the one paying for a big catch-up service.

3. Compare total monthly cost, not just the purchase price.
It’s not only about the $8,200. I need to calculate insurance for the Outlander vs. the Yaris, expected gas costs (the SUV may burn more fuel), and likely upcoming maintenance. If the car note to my dad is around $400-$450 per month, plus a bit for insurance and regular upkeep, I must be sure that still fits my weekly budget and leaves some breathing room.

4. Clarify repayment terms with my dad.
Since he’s effectively acting as the lender, we should agree in advance how much I’ll pay, on what date, and what happens if I have a slow month. Even within a family, it’s healthier to treat a loan as seriously as a bank would – just without the interest rate.

5. Leave space for emergencies.
I’m already setting aside $40 a week for my son’s emergency fund, which is smart. But if I add a $400-$450 commitment, there’s less flexibility if I have an unexpected medical bill, a cut in income, or a surprise repair on the “new” car.

From a quality-of-life perspective, upgrading is very appealing. More room for my son, more comfort, a newer vehicle with modern safety features – these are real, meaningful benefits. Driving an older, tiny car with constant issues is stressful, especially as a parent. A reliable SUV could make daily life easier and safer.

But emotions shouldn’t be the only driver here. Having a “newer” car doesn’t automatically mean fewer bills. Sometimes people switch from an older reliable car with known issues to a newer used car and end up with a different set of expensive problems. That’s why the inspection and history check are so crucial.

It’s also worth considering alternatives before committing:

Different used models:
If my main priorities are reliability and low long-term costs, a used Toyota or Honda SUV (like a RAV4 or CR-V) might be a better bet than a Mitsubishi, even if the initial purchase price is slightly higher. Paying a bit more upfront can sometimes save thousands in repairs later.

Cheaper upgrade than an SUV:
If the Yaris is too small, maybe a used compact sedan or hatchback with a good reliability record would be enough. Something just a bit larger and newer might cost less than the Outlander and still give more space and comfort.

Repairing and keeping the Yaris a bit longer:
If a mechanic says the Yaris still has a lot of life left after fixing the current issues, it might be smarter to invest in one last major repair, then aggressively save for a year. With that extra savings, I could buy a better car without needing as much help from my dad.

Given my income of $330 a week, a commitment of $400-$450 per month is significant but not impossible, especially since I don’t pay typical housing and utility bills. That said, it effectively locks a big chunk of my cash flow into a single obligation for a year. Before doing that, I should be certain the car I’m buying is mechanically solid.

If the Outlander passes a thorough inspection, has a clean history, and shows no looming big-ticket repairs, then the deal could make sense. In that case, I’d be converting random, stressful repair costs into a clear, time-limited payoff plan for a more comfortable and practical vehicle. For a parent trying to balance safety, comfort, and budgeting, that can be reasonable.

If, however, the mechanic warns me about serious issues – transmission problems, engine leaks, signs of crash damage, or neglected maintenance – I should be ready to walk away, no matter how good the price looks. There will always be other cars, but my financial stability and peace of mind are harder to replace.

In short, upgrading from the old Toyota to a 2017 Mitsubishi Outlander might be a smart move, but only if:

– The car is verified to be mechanically sound.
– The total monthly cost truly fits within my budget.
– I’m comfortable taking on a short-term but heavy payment to my dad.
– I’ve compared this option with other reliable models in the same price range.

If those boxes are checked, selling the Yaris and moving into a more spacious, comfortable SUV could be a practical step forward for me and my son – not just a shiny new toy, but a thoughtful upgrade in quality of life.