Still paying for a car you can’t drive is one of the most frustrating financial situations to be in. In your case, you’ve got an older car with a dead computer system sitting at the dealership for months, no clear repair timeline, and you’re stuck making loan and insurance payments on something that’s not even on the road. Meanwhile, your husband is commuting two hours a day in another unreliable beater.
Here’s how to think through your options and what practical steps you can take.
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1. Step one: clarify what’s really going on with the repair
Right now, the biggest problem is uncertainty. You don’t even know if this car will ever be fixed. Before making any major decision, push to get answers in writing.
Ask the dealership:
– What exact part is on order? (Name, part number, and whether it’s OEM or aftermarket.)
– Why is it taking months? Is it a supply chain delay, backorder, discontinued part, or their internal issue?
– Is there an alternative solution? Used parts, rebuilt modules, aftermarket parts, or a specialist who can program a compatible computer.
– Worst-case scenario: If the part never arrives or can’t fix the issue, what do they expect to happen?
Request a written work order updated with:
– Diagnosis of the problem
– Parts ordered and dates ordered
– Any communications from the manufacturer or supplier
If they refuse to give details or only offer vague promises, treat that as a warning sign. It suggests they don’t have a clear plan.
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2. Escalate above the dealership level
If the car is sitting for months because of a part “coming from China” with no ETA, don’t just wait passively.
You can:
– Contact the manufacturer’s customer support directly.
– Ask if this is a known issue.
– Confirm whether the part is truly backordered or discontinued.
– See if they can authorize an alternative repair, a remanufactured computer, or help locate parts through their network.
– Ask for a case number and a point of contact.
That puts a bit of pressure on the dealership and shows you’re taking the situation seriously.
In some cases, when a car is down for a long time due to parts delays, manufacturers may offer goodwill assistance, discounts, or help locating rare parts. It’s not guaranteed, but it’s worth trying.
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3. Reevaluate the insurance on the broken car
You’re paying insurance on a vehicle that’s not even drivable. Depending on your lender’s requirements, you may be able to save money here.
Check:
– What coverage is required by your lender?
Most lenders require comprehensive and collision on financed cars. Liability is irrelevant when it’s not being driven, but it’s usually bundled.
– Ask your insurer about “storage” or “comprehensive only” coverage.
If your lender allows it, you might be able to:
– Drop collision coverage since the car isn’t on the road
– Keep comprehensive only (fire, theft, vandalism, etc.) while it sits at the shop
– Ask for a written confirmation of what you can change.
You don’t want to unknowingly violate your loan agreement, but if there’s any flexibility, downgrading coverage could free up monthly cash.
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4. Talk to the lender about the situation
You still owe about $7,000 on this car, and it may not be usable for a long time. That’s a financial issue, not just a mechanical one.
Call your lender and:
– Explain the situation clearly:
– Car is inoperable
– Computer failure, sitting at the dealer for months
– Part on indefinite backorder
– Ask what options they offer:
– Temporary payment deferment or forbearance while the car is non-operational
– Loan modification or extended term to lower the monthly payment
– Whether they allow comprehensive-only insurance while it’s off the road
Be honest about your finances and the fact you’re already relying on an unreliable backup car. They may not be sympathetic, but some lenders prefer helping you stay afloat rather than pushing you toward default.
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5. Weigh the nuclear option: selling or surrendering the car
If the car ultimately cannot be repaired or isn’t worth the cost and stress, you’ll have to decide how to cut your losses.
Option 1: Sell the car “as is” while still under loan
– You can sometimes sell a broken car:
– To a private buyer as a project car
– To a mechanic or used car lot
– To a scrapyard if it’s truly done
– The challenge:
If the sale price is less than the $7k you owe, you’ll still be on the hook for the difference (negative equity). You’d need to:
– Pay the lender the shortfall out of pocket, or
– Take out a small personal loan to cover the difference
Option 2: Voluntary repossession (voluntary surrender)
If your finances are truly stretched and you can’t keep up, you might consider handing the car back to the lender. But this has serious consequences:
– They’ll take the car, auction it off, and apply the sale to your loan.
– You will likely still owe a deficiency balance (the gap between what the car sells for and your loan balance, plus fees).
– It will severely hurt your credit and remain on your report for years.
Because of the credit impact and potential remaining balance, voluntary surrender is usually a last resort, not a first move.
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6. Do a realistic cost-benefit check on this car
Even if the part eventually arrives, you have an old, high-mileage vehicle with a failed computer. Before continuing to sink money into it, step back and run the numbers.
Ask yourself:
– How much more are you likely to spend on repairs over the next 12-24 months?
– If the computer is replaced, are there known issues with this make/model at its current mileage?
– What is the actual market value of the car in running condition compared with the $7,000 balance you still owe?
If the car’s market value in perfect working order is barely more than what you owe, you are close to being “underwater” on a depreciating liability. That doesn’t automatically mean you should walk away, but it should inform how much more cash you’re willing to throw at it.
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7. Protect yourselves in the meantime: the backup car and commuting
Your husband’s two‑hour daily commute in another unreliable old car is a risk:
– If that back‑up car fails, you may face:
– Lost income
– Emergency transportation costs
– Even more pressure to rush into a bad car deal
To manage this:
1. Prioritize basic preventive maintenance on the backup vehicle:
– Oil changes
– Fluids and belts
– Tires and brakes
– Battery and alternator checks
Spending a bit now can reduce the odds of a breakdown that would be much more expensive later.
2. Consider whether there are any commute alternatives:
– Carpooling with a coworker (even a couple of days a week to reduce miles)
– Public transportation for part of the route if it exists
– Temporary remote work options, even one or two days per week, to cut mileage and fuel costs
Even small reductions in daily strain on the backup car can buy you time to find a better long-term solution.
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8. Prepare a transition plan to a more reliable vehicle
Whether this broken car is eventually repaired or not, your overall situation suggests it’s time to aim for a more reliable primary vehicle and a healthier financial setup.
Create a simple plan:
1. Set a monthly savings target
Even $100-$200/month into a dedicated “car fund” helps.
If you save anything by adjusting insurance or temporarily lowering loan payments, direct that savings into this fund instead of letting it vanish into daily spending.
2. Decide your priorities
For the next car, reliability and low total cost of ownership matter more than features. Research which models are known to be inexpensive to maintain over high mileage.
3. Avoid repeating the same loan trap
When you eventually replace the car:
– Keep the loan term as short as you can reasonably handle, ideally 36-48 months.
– Put money down to avoid starting underwater.
– Don’t roll in negative equity from your current loan if it can be avoided.
Even if you can’t act on this immediately, having a plan calms the anxiety and keeps you from making a panicked decision when something finally fails.
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9. Check your legal and consumer rights
Depending on your location and the age/mileage of the car, you might have some additional protection, especially if:
– You recently purchased this vehicle and it failed shortly afterward.
– The dealer misrepresented its condition.
– There is a known defect with the computer system for that make/model.
Look into:
– Whether there are any warranty extensions or goodwill programs from the manufacturer related to the computer or electronics.
– If the car is still under any form of warranty (even limited or powertrain), what coverage applies.
– Laws that address unreasonable delays in repair or failure to perform contracted work in a timely manner.
You don’t need to start aggressively; simply understanding your rights helps you decide how hard to push with the dealership and the manufacturer.
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10. Summing up practical next steps
To turn this from a vague, stressful situation into a structured plan, take it step by step:
1. Get clear, written information from the dealership about the repair and part status.
2. Escalate to the manufacturer, open a case, and ask for help or alternatives.
3. Review and possibly reduce insurance coverage on the non‑drivable car within lender rules.
4. Talk to your lender about hardship options, deferment, or a temporary adjustment.
5. Run the math: is it worth hanging on to this car even if it is eventually fixed?
6. Stabilize the backup car with basic maintenance so your husband isn’t one breakdown away from a crisis.
7. Start a modest car fund so you’re not stuck in the same position in a year or two.
You’re in a tough position, but you’re not powerless. By pushing for answers, trimming costs where you can, and planning ahead for a better vehicle, you can gradually move from “stuck with a broken car and a loan” toward a more stable and less stressful setup.